Jordanian architect Mohammad al-Asad hates the al-Sweifieh district. He unleashed his anger in this article.
A few days ago, my wife and I wanted to buy clothes for our two children. So all of us went to Sweifieh (Suwayfiyyah is a more accurate transliteration), one of Amman’s better known shopping districts, to look for clothes. I rarely go to Sweifieh, and this recent excursion there reminded me why that is so.
A few weeks ago, I wrote an article stating that Jabal Luweibdeh is Amman’s most beautiful district. In this article, I argue that Sweifieh in contrast is one of the city’s most unpleasant districts. The area is one where chaos rules supreme. If you need to drive through it, brace yourself for a most unpleasant experience. One is overwhelmed by extensive traffic congestion, coupled with bad driving habits.
The parking situation is nightmarish. Vehicles are parked everywhere in just about every conceivable manner. The arrangement of parked vehicles resembles what you get when a child throws his toy cars on the floor.
The state of the sidewalks is pathetic and they do not seem to conform to any design standards. Continuous stretches of sidewalks are simply nonexistent. We walked through a small stretch of Sweifieh, desperately trying to find an area where we might walk comfortably and safely without worrying about moving vehicles, poorly paved sidewalks, and sudden level changes.”
Source [The Jordan Times]
I completely agree with him. Sweifieh really is becoming intolerable. When I’m in Amman, I try to avoid it as much as possible, something now achievable thanks to the advent of malls in the Kingdom.
I also salute Al-Asad’s proclamation that Jabal al-Weibdeh is the most beautiful place in Amman. Really, where else can you see buildings of such distinctive architectural style located in lush and intact old neighborhoods?
well what can i say .. i just love Sweifieh .. i grew up there .. all my childhood memories are there .. i’m married now so i moved .. but i just have to stop by at least twice a week .. i love its traffic jam and the sight of people and the stores .. the streets the bumps .. everything .. i love it .. i even go to the same supermarket i used to before getting married 2 years ago .. and when i find the right house .. i’m moving back .. what can i say .. i love it … it’s my HOME ..
Too bad most of Amman’s seven circles no longer exist. I think only the first three were left intact. And I agree with you Luai, the first circle is really cute. Actually the first circle and the adjacent Rainbow Street is among my favorite haunts in Amman. Ah, I really miss this country.
I would agree with Natasha. I doubt there was any planning done (you can really blame anyone because of the influx of people and the birth rates over the past 20 years or so prevented the proper expansion of Amman) and as a result the infrastructure is poor. I think there is a big push towards the West these days, resulting in a much larger Amman. But I don’t think anything can be done at this point. One has to walk in the street in Jordan b/c that is the only smooth and uniform surface available to pedestrians. Sidewalks come in all heights, sizes, and surfaces.
Many US cities evolved and planning/construction was strictly monitored for code compliance. But we do have our problems as well. With sewers systems backing up into homes, water mains breaking, clean water, electricity, etc. But the problems are nowhere near those seen in Jordan, where unfortunately some of these are the norm.
Linda, I recommend a tour of all the circles of Amman. I couldn’t really grasp how large the city is. If you miss your turn off driving…it could take you an hour to return to that same spot. I got lost driving last year in Amman and got to experience all the circles. My favorite is #1, so small and cute 🙂
Linda,
The problem with Amman in general is that it expanded so quickly without any proper urban planning. The result was scattered, unconnected areas which makes the whole navigation experience unpleasant.
Amman is really in need of proper planning. You will see for yourself next year;-)
I would have to say this story basically represents every city that exists. No matter where you go, there will always be parts of a city where the architcture is terrible, the streets are run down, and in California’s case, the area is dangerous.
But when I do visit Jordan next year, I will make sure to visit Sweifieh just to see it for my self.